lake como
Keeping up with the Clooneys
By Mike Pickup, Mike writes about travel for numerous newspapers and magazines, both consumer and trade, and has over a hundred features published each year. He is also the Editor of Holiday Magazine and a professionally trained photographer. For more information click here
George and Amal Clooney were at home in their 18th century Villa Oleandra (right) and no wonder they go there. Unlike the two larger Italian lakes, Maggiore and Garda, celebrity-studded Lake Como is bordered by towering mountains creating spectacular scenery, a bit like the Norwegian Fjords but with the temperature turned up and prices turned down.
My villa-spotting cruise got as close as permitted to the Clooney villa although it’s not as imposing as some properties on the water’s edge, most of which are in private ownership.
However, a few are open to the public and I visited Villa Balbianello, now owned by the Italian National Trust. Originally built as a monastery in the thirteenth century, it was purchased by Cardinal Durini in 1785 and converted into a villa. The last owner was Count Guido Monzino. He carried out many expeditions to far-flung lands, culminating in the first Italian expedition to climb Everest. The villa is filled with art treasures from his journeys, and his sleigh from his 1969 expedition to the North Pole. It also featured in a number of films including Casino Royale and Star Wars Episode II. As with other Italian villas, the exteriors get as much attention as the interiors, and Balbianello’s lovely gardens are no exception.
My villa-spotting cruise got as close as permitted to the Clooney villa although it’s not as imposing as some properties on the water’s edge, most of which are in private ownership.
However, a few are open to the public and I visited Villa Balbianello, now owned by the Italian National Trust. Originally built as a monastery in the thirteenth century, it was purchased by Cardinal Durini in 1785 and converted into a villa. The last owner was Count Guido Monzino. He carried out many expeditions to far-flung lands, culminating in the first Italian expedition to climb Everest. The villa is filled with art treasures from his journeys, and his sleigh from his 1969 expedition to the North Pole. It also featured in a number of films including Casino Royale and Star Wars Episode II. As with other Italian villas, the exteriors get as much attention as the interiors, and Balbianello’s lovely gardens are no exception.
My cruise included a short stop at Isola Comacina, a small island just off the lake shore. It’s home to a lovely restaurant and small bar where a large glass of wine at three euros included a bowl of crisps. You don’t have to have a film-star income to enjoy the hospitality here.
There's the 17th century Villa Carlotta too, containing many treasures. Its famous botanical gardens have over 150 species of rhododendrons, azaleas and camellias, old cedars and sequoias. It provided a shady interlude on a hot afternoon and the villa’s museum exhibitions were beautifully presented.
There's the 17th century Villa Carlotta too, containing many treasures. Its famous botanical gardens have over 150 species of rhododendrons, azaleas and camellias, old cedars and sequoias. It provided a shady interlude on a hot afternoon and the villa’s museum exhibitions were beautifully presented.
It was a few minutes’ walk to my hotel, the Britannia Excelsior in the village of Cadenabbia. My large, comfortable room with balcony provided a shady spot to sit and admire the spectacular view across the lake - as good if not better than that offered by any of the villas I had seen; sorry George. The hotel is on the lakeside road, providing easy links to lovely nearby villages such as Menaggio, and has ferry links to other lakeside locations.
The hotel has two pools and sun decks which float on the lake, giving guests a spectacular location to soak up the sun and sights of the village. Accommodation is all-inclusive and with the temperature over thirty degrees, cold beer, wine and Prosecco were much in demand. Switzerland is just over the mountains and hotel excursions include St Moritz and a trip on the Bernina Express.
The hotel has two pools and sun decks which float on the lake, giving guests a spectacular location to soak up the sun and sights of the village. Accommodation is all-inclusive and with the temperature over thirty degrees, cold beer, wine and Prosecco were much in demand. Switzerland is just over the mountains and hotel excursions include St Moritz and a trip on the Bernina Express.
Across the lake from the hotel is Bellagio - the hotel in Las Vegas is named after it. I took the free boat service from the hotel to visit this tranquil, elegant and largely pedestrianised town. Old buildings, shop-lined cobbled steps, boutiques, cafes and formal gardens put Bellagio on the ‘must see’ list for visitors. Composer Franz Liszt lived there for a while with Marie d'Agoult and their daughter, Cosima, went on to marry Wagner. Lunch at the Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni was a memorable experience. The hotel is owned by the Swiss Bucher family and contains many of their personal art treasures. Hotel guests have included JFK and Winston Churchill who have suites named after them.
I also strolled through the shady manicured gardens of Villa Melzi which line the lake’s shore, once again proving that, in this part of Italy at least, impressive gardens are as important as imposing villas. Belllagio is certainly one of the most romantic spots on the lake.
My visit flew by in a haze of boat trips, villas, gardens, stunning scenery and delicious food and wine, but all too soon it was time to go. No wonder George and Amal decided to stay on for a while.
FACT BOX
Tui Lakes & Mountains (020 8610 3139) offers a week’s all-inclusive holiday at the three-star Hotel Britannia Excelsior including flights from Gatwick and transfers from £702 per person all-inclusive. Direct flights from most regional airports available at a supplement starting from £20. Click here for more details
Holiday Extras offers trusted Meet and Greet services at all major UK airports. To book visit HolidayExtras.com or call 0800 1313 777.
FACT BOX
Tui Lakes & Mountains (020 8610 3139) offers a week’s all-inclusive holiday at the three-star Hotel Britannia Excelsior including flights from Gatwick and transfers from £702 per person all-inclusive. Direct flights from most regional airports available at a supplement starting from £20. Click here for more details
Holiday Extras offers trusted Meet and Greet services at all major UK airports. To book visit HolidayExtras.com or call 0800 1313 777.
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Want more of Italy? See Bordighera and Bordighera and Genoa and Photography Holiday and Radda and Sardinia 1 and Sardinia 2 and Skip the Bucket List and Spas and Style & Culture