Hopping around colombia
By Solange Hando. Solange is a professional travel journalist and photographer, editor, public speaker and facilitator. She has contributed to National Geographic and Reader's Digest travel books and published features in 96 titles worldwide. She travels widely but her specialist subjects are Bhutan, where she attended the coronation, Nepal and France. She is a member of the British Guild of Travel Writers, Travel Writers UK and the International Travel Writers Alliance. Her latest book is the Berlitz Guide to Bhutan. She is also the author of, 'Be a Travel Writer, Live your Dreams, Sell your Features' which has been endorsed by Hilary Bradt (founder of the Bradt travel guides) and best selling author Simon Whaley. She has been included in a new book Best British Travel Writing of the 21st Century. https://travelwriters.co.uk/personal-pages/solange-hando
Well, there I was, a millionaire, for the first time in my life, scooping up 1½ million pesos (£270) into my money belt. After a 13 hour flight, that was an auspicious start and beyond the super efficient El Dorado airport, we reached our city hotel just before the clock struck midnight. I couldn't wait to explore.
I love mountains and at 2625 metres, Bogota -the world's third highest capital- beckoned with traditional lanes and impressive squares, ethnic markets, lamas, shaded parks and a dazzling Gold Museum with 20 000 (18 carats) exhibits and others.
I feasted on local food, popped around the open air festival but my favourite spot was the wooded hill of Monserrate, rising to 3152 meters, sacred since ancient times, now topped by pilgrimage church and panoramic views of the hills and the city, old and new. No time for a three hour climb so I opted for the funicular
I love mountains and at 2625 metres, Bogota -the world's third highest capital- beckoned with traditional lanes and impressive squares, ethnic markets, lamas, shaded parks and a dazzling Gold Museum with 20 000 (18 carats) exhibits and others.
I feasted on local food, popped around the open air festival but my favourite spot was the wooded hill of Monserrate, rising to 3152 meters, sacred since ancient times, now topped by pilgrimage church and panoramic views of the hills and the city, old and new. No time for a three hour climb so I opted for the funicular
'Tomorrow, day trip, the salt cathedral, ok?'
Amazing all the way through. Dozens of shrines carved into the cliff, statues and crosses in changing lights, soft music here and there, tourists and pilgrims spellbound as they followed the underground trail. Miners built the church to honour their saint and salt remains an important asset. In ancient times, it was used as currency (hence 'salary') and was more valuable than gold
Two days later we flew to Pereira, a sizeable city in the Andean foothills and part of the UNESCO site listed for the 'Coffee Cultural Landscape of Colombia'. Our lovely hotel was down a forested lane where my room included an outdoor terrace, draped in flowers and shrubs with lounger and old-fashioned bath. So I relaxed the natural way, only squirrels and birds looking down from the trees.
Amazing all the way through. Dozens of shrines carved into the cliff, statues and crosses in changing lights, soft music here and there, tourists and pilgrims spellbound as they followed the underground trail. Miners built the church to honour their saint and salt remains an important asset. In ancient times, it was used as currency (hence 'salary') and was more valuable than gold
Two days later we flew to Pereira, a sizeable city in the Andean foothills and part of the UNESCO site listed for the 'Coffee Cultural Landscape of Colombia'. Our lovely hotel was down a forested lane where my room included an outdoor terrace, draped in flowers and shrubs with lounger and old-fashioned bath. So I relaxed the natural way, only squirrels and birds looking down from the trees.
Early morning brought thunder and rain though when we reached the coffee plantations we were ready for 'work'. Baskets and cowboy hats, we headed down the slopes, picking beans as red as berries and back on the farm, we planted our humble harvest for a prosperous future.
Then it was time to taste as we'd never done before… 'wait, see the colour, twirl tiny cup, smell fragrance, sip gently, taste on your lips, your tongue then let slip down your throat. How does it feel?' Brilliant…
It was rather like wine tasting but this was top brew Colombian coffee, the best in the world, they say, and we received a certificate to show we'd done it right. High mountains drifted in and out the mist while lush plantations rolled as far as we could see.
Quick hop to Medellin and at a mere 1500 metres, the 'City of Eternal Spring' took my breath away. Most dangerous city in the world, I was told, drug cartels, crime, violence… Yet, much to my surprise, that's gone (almost) and I discovered the new face of Colombia, joyous, colourful and safe. Public transport frequent and cheap -including cable cars to hilltop districts- and beyond museums and parks, we revelled in Comuna 13, a no-go area until the millennium. Clambering up the hill, all steep steps and tangled lanes, the village is still there but today families chat on pocket-sized balconies, washing hangs on the lines and youngsters celebrate their ancient culture with fabulous street art. Add salsa, break dancing, ethnic craft and a few coffee shops, it's an unmissable tourist attraction providing a new sustainable life for the community
Then it was time to taste as we'd never done before… 'wait, see the colour, twirl tiny cup, smell fragrance, sip gently, taste on your lips, your tongue then let slip down your throat. How does it feel?' Brilliant…
It was rather like wine tasting but this was top brew Colombian coffee, the best in the world, they say, and we received a certificate to show we'd done it right. High mountains drifted in and out the mist while lush plantations rolled as far as we could see.
Quick hop to Medellin and at a mere 1500 metres, the 'City of Eternal Spring' took my breath away. Most dangerous city in the world, I was told, drug cartels, crime, violence… Yet, much to my surprise, that's gone (almost) and I discovered the new face of Colombia, joyous, colourful and safe. Public transport frequent and cheap -including cable cars to hilltop districts- and beyond museums and parks, we revelled in Comuna 13, a no-go area until the millennium. Clambering up the hill, all steep steps and tangled lanes, the village is still there but today families chat on pocket-sized balconies, washing hangs on the lines and youngsters celebrate their ancient culture with fabulous street art. Add salsa, break dancing, ethnic craft and a few coffee shops, it's an unmissable tourist attraction providing a new sustainable life for the community
'Now, who's going to make it to the top of El Penol, 740 steps up the granite rock? '
A two hour drive from Medellin, it did look awesome, rising 200 metres above ground, steps tightening up as you climbed, just like a corset.
'Look at my lady, she's almost there, isn't that amazing?'
'Can I take your photo, please, please…'
I won't mention my age but suddenly I was the VIP and invited to dance before I could enjoy the panorama. Far below, framed by mountains and hills, a vast reservoir meandered like so many lakes around islands, wooded shores, quiet coves and glistening bays. I did not want to leave but after a refreshing cruise, lunch was waiting in nearby Guatapé, a pretty lakeside resort with colourful lanes and bouncing tuktuks.
A two hour drive from Medellin, it did look awesome, rising 200 metres above ground, steps tightening up as you climbed, just like a corset.
'Look at my lady, she's almost there, isn't that amazing?'
'Can I take your photo, please, please…'
I won't mention my age but suddenly I was the VIP and invited to dance before I could enjoy the panorama. Far below, framed by mountains and hills, a vast reservoir meandered like so many lakes around islands, wooded shores, quiet coves and glistening bays. I did not want to leave but after a refreshing cruise, lunch was waiting in nearby Guatapé, a pretty lakeside resort with colourful lanes and bouncing tuktuks.
One last domestic flight -best way to hop around when time is short- and we landed on the Caribbean coast in the north-west. Luxury hotels, skyscrapers, bustling port, Cartagena was a shock though beyond the high-rise, we found the Colombia we knew. We joined a food tour in the once crime-ridden Getsemani (now the latest hotspot), marvelled at the wildlife in the Central Park and gazed at colonial buildings and flowery lanes in the colourful Old Town. Most exciting were the ramparts, 11km long, with gorgeous city views and a golden sunset over the sea.
The climax came on the final day for further along the coast in Barranquilla, the annual carnival was in full blast. Hardly any tourists around yet long before the parade started, the atmosphere was electric, time to flaunt your brightest attire, paint your face, squirt snow-white foam on family and friends and munch the longest kebabs I'd ever seen. There was music and dance, lots of fun and even the occasional smile from security guards
The climax came on the final day for further along the coast in Barranquilla, the annual carnival was in full blast. Hardly any tourists around yet long before the parade started, the atmosphere was electric, time to flaunt your brightest attire, paint your face, squirt snow-white foam on family and friends and munch the longest kebabs I'd ever seen. There was music and dance, lots of fun and even the occasional smile from security guards
But what was that? Crowds fluttered in anticipation, drums, maracas, accordion… closer and closer, then the parade arrived, dazzling colours, sweeping costumes, as myriad folk groups celebrated Colombia's multi-cultural roots. There were indigenous people, Spanish dancers, Africans - from the slave trade- and locals with incredibly tall hats.
I dreamed of it all night and when we left Colombia the next day, I knew I would be back.
For more information on Columbia, visit www.colombia.travel/en
For more information on Columbia, visit www.colombia.travel/en
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