Brahmaputra river cruise
By Subhasish Chakraborty Subhasish has been working as a Travel Writer for the past decade and is associated with some of India’s most renowned newspapers like The Times of India, The Telegraph and The Asian Age. He has also contributed articles on Travel & Tourism to some of India’s best known travel publications such as Voyage and Discover India and regularly contributes to the In-Flight magazines of some of the major International Airlines operating from India.
Having been born and brought up in the gateway city of North East India – Guwahati still evokes images of the mighty Brahmaputra river meandering through much of the city and of those joyful days when as kids we would play beach cricket on the sandy stretches of the river bank every winter.
So I was excited to embark on a ten-night cruise covering the colonial town of Dibrugarh, the medieval Ahom capital of Sibsagar, the islands of Majuli, the world famous Kaziranga National Park, the ancient city of Tezpur and the mecca of Assam’s burgeoning Silk industry – Sualkochi.
So I was excited to embark on a ten-night cruise covering the colonial town of Dibrugarh, the medieval Ahom capital of Sibsagar, the islands of Majuli, the world famous Kaziranga National Park, the ancient city of Tezpur and the mecca of Assam’s burgeoning Silk industry – Sualkochi.
After an overnight’s train journey from Guwahati and a 3.5 hour drive past quaint Assamese countryside and lush green tea gardens, I arrived at the Ghat jetty where the magnificent vessel “Charaidew” was moored. A group of visitors from UK, all IT professionals, and two NRI families, along with the crew, made up the party; thirty minutes later we began our journey. Enjoying a cold beer on deck I chatted to a UK guest who was rekindling the memories of his grandfather who had worked in a renowned Tea Garden of Assam and passed away soon after the 1947 partition.Charaidew has twelve luxury cabins complete with air conditioning and shower cubicle. Being on the upper deck guests can enjoy the panoramic riverside views from their cabins, complete with sliding windows.
Our first stop was at the medieval city of Sibsagar. Formerly a military bastion of the mighty Ahom rulers who ruled supreme for more than 600 years, Sibsagar is developing into one of the most vibrant towns of Upper Assam and is one of Assam’s principal centres of tea and oil.
After a leisurely tour we returned to Charaidew and headed for Majuli – the world’s largest riverine island. Here we sampled the very best of Assam’s tradition and heritage and Majuli has been short-listed by the UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. Back on board we cruised along the river for another two hours before anchoring for our night halt.
The next day was largely spent cruising, interrupted by a brief halt at Jamuguri, renowned for its fascinating tribal population. Both I and the UK guests were taken aback by the richness of the tribal dwellers and the sight of women using their traditional looms to produce exotically designed shawls.
After a leisurely tour we returned to Charaidew and headed for Majuli – the world’s largest riverine island. Here we sampled the very best of Assam’s tradition and heritage and Majuli has been short-listed by the UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. Back on board we cruised along the river for another two hours before anchoring for our night halt.
The next day was largely spent cruising, interrupted by a brief halt at Jamuguri, renowned for its fascinating tribal population. Both I and the UK guests were taken aback by the richness of the tribal dwellers and the sight of women using their traditional looms to produce exotically designed shawls.
By late afternoon we reached the edge of Kaziranga National Park, the last remaining habitat of the rare and endangered one –horned rhinoceros. A guest identified one, along with a herd of spotted deer, but the best was yet to come.
Next day we woke to a cacophony of bird song and later clambered aboard four-wheel-drive vehicles, heading off to the western range of the Park. Rattling along through the foggy landscape there was a nip in the air but it was all worthwhile. We spotted Hollock Gibbons, Capped Langurs (they are cute), Bristly Hare, Sloth Bears, the Swamp Deer, Sambhar and Barasingha. If luck is on your side, you might even spot the elusive Gangetic Dolphins that are a treat to watch.
Next day we woke to a cacophony of bird song and later clambered aboard four-wheel-drive vehicles, heading off to the western range of the Park. Rattling along through the foggy landscape there was a nip in the air but it was all worthwhile. We spotted Hollock Gibbons, Capped Langurs (they are cute), Bristly Hare, Sloth Bears, the Swamp Deer, Sambhar and Barasingha. If luck is on your side, you might even spot the elusive Gangetic Dolphins that are a treat to watch.
Next morning, with the ship close to Kaziranga’s central range, we saw more wildlife thanks to the early morning elephant rides and jungle safaris; a visit to the neighbouring Tea Garden Estates was truly a very rewarding experience. The sight of hundreds of women plucking tealeaves on to their cane baskets hanging at their backs was straight out of the “Garden of Eden”.
The last three days were spent sight seeing in places like Tezpur, Guwahati and Sualkochi, each one more interesting than the other. While Tezpur with its lush green tea gardens and its proximity to Orang National Park was terrific so was the capital city of Assam – Guwahati, with the holy Kamakshya Temple perched atop the Nilachal Hills. For the quintessential Tantrik believers, this temple is the ultimate.
As the gateway city of the North East India, Guwahati has indeed come of age. Trendy multi-cuisine restaurants, neon lit bars, deluxe hotels and a youth brigade, which is constantly evolving to the demands of the new age, are characteristic features of the city.
For shopping, Guwahati has numerous centrally located markets like the Fancy Bazaar, Paltan Bazaar, Ulubari, Ganeshguri and GNB Road. A popular haunt of the tourists to Guwahati is the Assam State Emporium and we purchased a few Bamboo and cane products. The guests from UK were more interested in the traditionally manufactured shawls, wall hangings and fancy Assamese hats.
For further information and reservations on long distance river cruises in the Brahmaputra contact –
Assam Bengal Navigation Company, Mandovi Apartments, 1st Floor, GNB Road, Ambari, Guwahati – 781001, Assam, India.
Telephone: +91-0361-2602186, 2602223, 2540995, email [email protected] or go to www.assambengalnavigation.com
The last three days were spent sight seeing in places like Tezpur, Guwahati and Sualkochi, each one more interesting than the other. While Tezpur with its lush green tea gardens and its proximity to Orang National Park was terrific so was the capital city of Assam – Guwahati, with the holy Kamakshya Temple perched atop the Nilachal Hills. For the quintessential Tantrik believers, this temple is the ultimate.
As the gateway city of the North East India, Guwahati has indeed come of age. Trendy multi-cuisine restaurants, neon lit bars, deluxe hotels and a youth brigade, which is constantly evolving to the demands of the new age, are characteristic features of the city.
For shopping, Guwahati has numerous centrally located markets like the Fancy Bazaar, Paltan Bazaar, Ulubari, Ganeshguri and GNB Road. A popular haunt of the tourists to Guwahati is the Assam State Emporium and we purchased a few Bamboo and cane products. The guests from UK were more interested in the traditionally manufactured shawls, wall hangings and fancy Assamese hats.
For further information and reservations on long distance river cruises in the Brahmaputra contact –
Assam Bengal Navigation Company, Mandovi Apartments, 1st Floor, GNB Road, Ambari, Guwahati – 781001, Assam, India.
Telephone: +91-0361-2602186, 2602223, 2540995, email [email protected] or go to www.assambengalnavigation.com
Images courtesy of Assam Bengal Navigation Company
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