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keeping up with the clooneys

17/3/2019

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​George and Amal Clooney were at home in the 18th century Villa Oleandra on Lake Como, although the invitation to pop in for a Nespresso must have got lost in the post.
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Villa Oleandra (click to enlarge)
​Lake Como is bordered by high mountains, creating spectacular lake and mountain scenery, a bit like the Norwegian Fjords but with the temperature turned up and the prices turned down. No wonder it attracts the rich and famous.
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​I took a villa-spotting cruise and whilst chez Clooney is a lovely place it’s not as imposing as some other properties on the water’s edge. A few are open to the public. Villa Balbianello was purchased in 1974 by  Count Guido Monzino. He carried out many expeditions to far-flung lands, culminating in leading the first Italian expedition to climb Everest. He overhauled the villa’s interior and filled it with treasures from his journeys, including his sleigh from his 1969 expedition to the North Pole. The villa featured in a number of films, including Casino Royale and Star Wars Episode II. As with other Italian villas, the gardens get as much attention as the building itself and Villa Balbianello’s lovely grounds are no exception.
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Villa Balbianello (click to enlarge)
​My cruise included a short stop at a small island, Isola Comacina. It’s home to a restaurant, a collection of archaeological sites and the three artist houses. There is also a small bar with lovely views, where a large glass of wine cost me just three euros and included a bowl of crisps. You really don’t need a film-star income to enjoy the hospitality here.
 
Villa Carlotta was also on my visit list. Built in the 17th century it contains many treasures and has famous botanical gardens with over 150 species of rhododendrons, azaleas and camellias, plus old cedars and sequoias. It provided a shady interlude on a hot afternoon and the museum exhibitions were beautifully presented. They include Antonio Canova’s Palamedes and The Muse Terpsichore, Eros and Psyche by Adamo Tadolini and Franceso Hayez’s The Last Adieu of Romeo and Juliet.
 
The villa was a few minutes’ walk from my hotel, the Britannia Excelsior, in the village of Cadenabbia. My room was large, comfortable and the balcony provided a shady spot to sit and admire the view over the lake. And what a view it was, as good if not better than that offered by any of the villas I had seen; sorry George.
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Hotel Britannia Excelsior (click to enlarge)
​Across the lake from the hotel is Bellagio - the hotel in Las Vegas is named after it. The old buildings, shop-lined cobbled steps, boutiques, cafes and formal gardens put Bellagio on the ‘must see’ list for visitors. The composer Franz Liszt lived there for a while with Marie d'Agoult and their daughter, Cosima, went on to marry Wagner.
 
Lunch at the Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni overlooking the lake was a memorable experience. The hotel is owned by the Swiss Bucher family and contains many of their personal art treasures. They live on site but keep out of the way of guests. Visitors have included JFK and Winston Churchill who have suites named after them.
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Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni (click to enlarge)
​I also strolled through the manicured gardens of Villa Melzi which line the shore of the lake, once again proving that, in this part of Italy at least, impressive gardens are as important as the imposing villas. Belllagio is certainly one of the most romantic spots on the lake.
 
My visit flew by in a haze of boat trips, villas, gardens, stunning scenery and glorious sunshine but it was soon time to leave this delightful spot. Not surprisingly, George and Amal decided to stay on for a while.
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    Hi, I'm Mike, an award-winning travel writer and photographer. I write for newspapers and magazines, both consumer and travel trade, and edit this site. You can see more details here  Also check out the reviews from great writers around the world in the Features section.

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