Weekend in Warsaw
By Mike Pickup, Mike writes about travel for numerous newspapers and magazines, both consumer and trade, and has over a hundred features published each year. He is also the Editor of Holiday Magazine and a professionally trained photographer. For more information click here
Poland’s capital Warsaw is elegant, fun and full of impressive architecture. The food is great, the people are friendly and almost all of them speak English, which is just as well because my Polish is non-existent.
The city has two airports and there are good connections from many European cities. I took a two-hour flight from London’s Heathrow to Warsaw’s Chopin airport, named after the famous composer and pianist. It was a twenty-minute drive from there to the Hotel Indigo. Spacious, comfortable and in the centre of the city, it’s ideally placed for exploring on foot. It also offers one of the best breakfast menus I have seen in a long time. I’m happy to confirm that Crepes Suzette and a glass of Prosecco really sets you up for the day.
The city has two airports and there are good connections from many European cities. I took a two-hour flight from London’s Heathrow to Warsaw’s Chopin airport, named after the famous composer and pianist. It was a twenty-minute drive from there to the Hotel Indigo. Spacious, comfortable and in the centre of the city, it’s ideally placed for exploring on foot. It also offers one of the best breakfast menus I have seen in a long time. I’m happy to confirm that Crepes Suzette and a glass of Prosecco really sets you up for the day.
The hotel is at one end of the Royal Route, the city’s most famous street. The pedestrianised thoroughfare connects three former residences of Polish rulers, the Royal Castle, the Royal Lazienki and the Wilanow Palace. I admired the many elegant buildings that line the route such as the Polish Academy of Science.
Near the southern end is the Holy Cross Church. The main church was built between 1679 and 1696. Following his death in Paris in 1849, Chopin’s heart was returned to Warsaw and interred here. The church was badly damaged in 1944 but was rebuilt between 1945 and 1953.
There are a number of black benches along the Route. As well as providing somewhere to sit they include buttons which, when pressed, allowed people to hear some of Chopin’s music being played through small speakers.
By night the Royal Route became party central. Restaurants of all types spilled on to the street. Musicians played, entertainers entertained, crowds of people walked up and down, dressed to impress; the rah-rah and the miniskirt are alive and well in Warsaw.
By night the Royal Route became party central. Restaurants of all types spilled on to the street. Musicians played, entertainers entertained, crowds of people walked up and down, dressed to impress; the rah-rah and the miniskirt are alive and well in Warsaw.
I enjoyed dinner at U Wieniawy, at the other end of the Royal Way from the hotel. The restaurant was inspired by General Wieniawa and the elegance and style of pre-war Warsaw. Guests are advised “In the event that a dispute-of-honour has occurred, the involved Gentlemen are requested to duel outside the premises.” The ambience was lovely and the food and service top class.
On the subject of food, Poland’s national dish is Pierogi. These are small dumplings which come with a range of fillings and toppings. At U Wieniawy my pierogi were filled with meat and topped with sour cream and bacon slices. Delicious, I can definitely recommend them!
I also enjoyed a late breakfast at Dej bakery. Founded by two young women in one room of a parent’s house, it produces top quality fresh bread and pastries. It is now so popular it occupies the whole house, employs fifteen people and generates long queues each morning, a great example of the positive atmosphere amongst Warsaw’s young people.
Poland will always be associated with WWII which started with its invasion by Germany in 1939. The country suffered badly under occupation and, in August 1944, there was an uprising to get rid of the German occupying forces. The resultant loss of life and destruction of the capital were catastrophic and even today the Warsaw Rising Museum, depicting life and events of the time, is hugely popular with people of all ages.
On a lighter note, Warsaw is also home to the Money Centre, located in the Headquarters of the National Bank of Poland. It’s sometimes seen as a museum but it is so much more, a story about money, trading, how to spot counterfeit money and even a gold bar. Try lifting one and you will never again believe what you see in the movies. In a similar vein, the Vodka museum traces the 500-year-old history of the famous drink.
On the subject of food, Poland’s national dish is Pierogi. These are small dumplings which come with a range of fillings and toppings. At U Wieniawy my pierogi were filled with meat and topped with sour cream and bacon slices. Delicious, I can definitely recommend them!
I also enjoyed a late breakfast at Dej bakery. Founded by two young women in one room of a parent’s house, it produces top quality fresh bread and pastries. It is now so popular it occupies the whole house, employs fifteen people and generates long queues each morning, a great example of the positive atmosphere amongst Warsaw’s young people.
Poland will always be associated with WWII which started with its invasion by Germany in 1939. The country suffered badly under occupation and, in August 1944, there was an uprising to get rid of the German occupying forces. The resultant loss of life and destruction of the capital were catastrophic and even today the Warsaw Rising Museum, depicting life and events of the time, is hugely popular with people of all ages.
On a lighter note, Warsaw is also home to the Money Centre, located in the Headquarters of the National Bank of Poland. It’s sometimes seen as a museum but it is so much more, a story about money, trading, how to spot counterfeit money and even a gold bar. Try lifting one and you will never again believe what you see in the movies. In a similar vein, the Vodka museum traces the 500-year-old history of the famous drink.
Like many European capital cities, Warsaw is on a major river, the Vistula. However, unlike other cities the river has been largely ignored until recently. From a river cruise it was clear that making the most of this natural resource for locals and visitors alike is still work in progress. However, on a hot, sunny day a couple of small riverside beaches proved popular, as did the cooling mist sprays mounted in the nearby pavement. They were popular with adults, kids and dogs as well as local bird life.
I also visited the Royal Lazienki Gardens. This large park is home to a number of royal residencies and is popular with locals. Cycling is not allowed, sanctuary from the bikes and e-scooters that seemed to occupy many of the pedestrian areas elsewhere in the city. During the summer it is also home to outdoor Chopin concerts each Sunday; crowds gathered early around the lake in front of the Chopin monument to find a shady spot to sit and enjoy the music.
There’s a lot to see and do in Warsaw and whilst the written language may be indecipherable to many visitors, English is almost universally spoken and English menus are always available. Welcoming and hospitable, it’s a great city to visit and experience all it has to offer.
For more information, visit www.go2warsaw.pl
There’s a lot to see and do in Warsaw and whilst the written language may be indecipherable to many visitors, English is almost universally spoken and English menus are always available. Welcoming and hospitable, it’s a great city to visit and experience all it has to offer.
For more information, visit www.go2warsaw.pl
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