EUROPEAN WATERWAYS
La Belle Epoque - Burgundy Cruise
By Michael Edwards. Alongside teaching English and Business Studies, Michael Edwards began writing freelance travel pieces for the Guardian, Independent and Telegraph in the 1980s. Now retired from teaching, he focuses on cruising the world.
Sometimes less is more. There are faster ways to zip through Burgundy and travel further; but few cruises offer the same combination of comfort, food, wine and insight into the region as European Waterways’ La Belle Epoque. This 12-passenger hotel barge spends six nights and seven days travelling along the Burgundy Canal between Lezinnes and Venarey-les-Laumes; a voyage of around 50 miles.
Slow travel is part of the luxury. Rather than using the canal as a means of racing from one chateau to the next vineyard, leisurely cruising becomes part of the experience.
Days are divided between cruising, meals, excursions to vineyards, châteaux, historic sites and villages. Guests can walk along the towpath or use the barge’s bicycles while the vessel continues at its sedate pace of around 5 km per hour.
Slow travel is part of the luxury. Rather than using the canal as a means of racing from one chateau to the next vineyard, leisurely cruising becomes part of the experience.
Days are divided between cruising, meals, excursions to vineyards, châteaux, historic sites and villages. Guests can walk along the towpath or use the barge’s bicycles while the vessel continues at its sedate pace of around 5 km per hour.
The cruise begins in Paris, in the Opera district, where guests meet at the grandly gilded Hotel Westminster before travelling south by private Mercedes transfer. After roughly three hours, the landscape has changed from the capital’s congestion to rural Burgundy. La Belle Epoque comes into view at Lezinnes.
La Belle Epoque was built in 1930 as a log-carrying barge and subsequently converted into a luxury hotel barge. During the Second World War, the vessel was reportedly used by the French Resistance to transport downed Allied airmen towards Spain.
Today dark polished wood, brass fittings, plush carpets and period-style artwork give the vessel a very different look after its decades of grubby work. The cabins are compact but comfortable, with air conditioning, en-suite bathrooms and rainfall showers. Whilst a lounge and dining room with panoramic windows, an open bar and a spacious sundeck - with hot tub - give the feel of an exclusive boutique hotel.
La Belle Epoque was built in 1930 as a log-carrying barge and subsequently converted into a luxury hotel barge. During the Second World War, the vessel was reportedly used by the French Resistance to transport downed Allied airmen towards Spain.
Today dark polished wood, brass fittings, plush carpets and period-style artwork give the vessel a very different look after its decades of grubby work. The cabins are compact but comfortable, with air conditioning, en-suite bathrooms and rainfall showers. Whilst a lounge and dining room with panoramic windows, an open bar and a spacious sundeck - with hot tub - give the feel of an exclusive boutique hotel.
The atmosphere is more intimate than that of a conventional river or ocean cruise. Guests share meals and excursions throughout the week, so the social element becomes an important part of the experience.
Food and wine are major components of the itinerary. Chef Harris prepares contemporary interpretations of French and Burgundian dishes, with meals including beetroot carpaccio, sea bass, risotto with caramelised hazelnuts and goats’ cheese, Charolais steak and inventive desserts.
Breakfast begins with one of the cruise’s rituals: the morning bread run. Guests sometimes opt to join the drive to a local bakery to collect fresh bread, croissants, brioche and pastries. These are served with fruit, coffee and eggs cooked to order.
Lunch is generally leisurely and accompanied by wine presented by the hostesses. During the week, guests are introduced to a substantial selection of local cheeses, adding up to around 30 varieties. One of the most impressive lunches is a Burgundian buffet featuring pâté en croûte, snails, charcuterie, salads, breads and cheeses.
Food and wine are major components of the itinerary. Chef Harris prepares contemporary interpretations of French and Burgundian dishes, with meals including beetroot carpaccio, sea bass, risotto with caramelised hazelnuts and goats’ cheese, Charolais steak and inventive desserts.
Breakfast begins with one of the cruise’s rituals: the morning bread run. Guests sometimes opt to join the drive to a local bakery to collect fresh bread, croissants, brioche and pastries. These are served with fruit, coffee and eggs cooked to order.
Lunch is generally leisurely and accompanied by wine presented by the hostesses. During the week, guests are introduced to a substantial selection of local cheeses, adding up to around 30 varieties. One of the most impressive lunches is a Burgundian buffet featuring pâté en croûte, snails, charcuterie, salads, breads and cheeses.
Chablis cellars
Wine education is incorporated into the meals. Ema and Luna introduce the wines, explaining aromas, flavours and finishes rather than simply pouring them. This is complemented by the excursion to Chablis, where guests visit the historic Laroche cellars and taste five wines.
The visit demonstrates the importance of terroir to Chablis. The limestone soils, vineyard location and varying exposure to sunlight can produce significant differences between wines made within a relatively small geographical area.
The tasting progresses through different classifications, concluding with a Grand Cru, while the guide discusses modern viticulture and the practical risks posed by frost, hail, blistering sun and disease.
The visit demonstrates the importance of terroir to Chablis. The limestone soils, vineyard location and varying exposure to sunlight can produce significant differences between wines made within a relatively small geographical area.
The tasting progresses through different classifications, concluding with a Grand Cru, while the guide discusses modern viticulture and the practical risks posed by frost, hail, blistering sun and disease.
Ancy
Small group excursions are one of the highlights of the cruise. At Ancy-le-Franc, guests visit a 16th-century Renaissance château built to demonstrate its owner’s wealth, status and political connections. The visit provides insight into the relationship between architecture and power, including the use of trompe-l’œil decoration to create elaborate effects while reducing construction time and expense.
Another excursion takes guests to the House of Taisne Ricour, in one of the southernmost parts of the Champagne region. Baron Charles de Taisne explains the practical challenges of producing Champagne, from extreme weather to mildew, as well as the complexities of blending wines from different years to maintain a consistent house style.
Another excursion takes guests to the House of Taisne Ricour, in one of the southernmost parts of the Champagne region. Baron Charles de Taisne explains the practical challenges of producing Champagne, from extreme weather to mildew, as well as the complexities of blending wines from different years to maintain a consistent house style.
Abbey Cloisters
The visit continues at the family château, where Baroness Ségolène de Taisne hosts guests for a four-course lunch accompanied by champagne. The setting and personal involvement of the family make this feel substantially different from a conventional winery visit.
The itinerary also passes the site associated with the Battle of Alesia, where Julius Caesar defeated the Gauls in 52 BC; unsuccessful Gallic resistance which inspired the creation of the Asterix character.
In contrast the Abbaye de Fontenay, Cistercian abbey, provides tranquil moments. Founded on principles of austerity, chastity, charity and silence, its restrained architecture and gardens offer insights into a life of monastic devotion.
The itinerary also passes the site associated with the Battle of Alesia, where Julius Caesar defeated the Gauls in 52 BC; unsuccessful Gallic resistance which inspired the creation of the Asterix character.
In contrast the Abbaye de Fontenay, Cistercian abbey, provides tranquil moments. Founded on principles of austerity, chastity, charity and silence, its restrained architecture and gardens offer insights into a life of monastic devotion.
Champagne and Sabre
The defining characteristic of La Belle Epoque is its pace. Some passengers spend significant amounts of time simply watching the Burgundy countryside pass. The canal is bordered by plane trees, willows, lockkeepers’ cottages, farms and grazing cattle, while herons are occasionally seen along the banks.
The final evening is marked by a six-course Captain’s Dinner. Champagne is ceremonially opened with a sabre before a menu of scallop carpaccio, French onion soup, lemon sorbet, Charolais steak, cheese and a contemporary mille-feuille dessert. The dinner epitomises the culinary approach: traditional French food presented with modern touches and accompanied by carefully selected wines.
With accommodation, gourmet meals, fine wines, an open bar, daily excursions, admissions and private transfers at either end, guests need little more than a few Euros in their pocket for souvenirs.
Though La Belle Epoque has one final attraction. Families or groups of friends may charter the entire barge. Adapting the itinerary around their interests such as wine, walking or golf; making it the ultimate experience for a big birthday or family celebration.
Learn more about European Waterways at www.europeanwaterways.com
The final evening is marked by a six-course Captain’s Dinner. Champagne is ceremonially opened with a sabre before a menu of scallop carpaccio, French onion soup, lemon sorbet, Charolais steak, cheese and a contemporary mille-feuille dessert. The dinner epitomises the culinary approach: traditional French food presented with modern touches and accompanied by carefully selected wines.
With accommodation, gourmet meals, fine wines, an open bar, daily excursions, admissions and private transfers at either end, guests need little more than a few Euros in their pocket for souvenirs.
Though La Belle Epoque has one final attraction. Families or groups of friends may charter the entire barge. Adapting the itinerary around their interests such as wine, walking or golf; making it the ultimate experience for a big birthday or family celebration.
Learn more about European Waterways at www.europeanwaterways.com
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